Wednesday 9 May 2012

7 May – Konya to Goreme (Turkey)

What storm? There was a heavy storm last night with some holding onto tents in the rain. I did not feel or hear anything of it much to their surprise. I did however hear the wolves howling and the local dogs barking but I did see the dogs in the morning when they went out with the goats, one donkey and the farmer, and the dogs were huge. At least there was no rooster in the village to wake us up and that was strange as well.

Leaving at 0700 hours we headed for the Ihlara Valley. Volcanic eruptions caused tectonic movements that left the surface of the region covered with a layer of volcanic rock. The same volcanic activity led to pressure and heat being put upon the limestone causing it to crack and create naturally spouting springs of hot water. The structural characteristics of the region due to volcanic eruption produced tuff outcrops which were moulded by wind, erosion and other natural phenomena. Huge areas of crumbling rock completely covered the area in its debris. The Ihlara Valley alongside the Melendiz River is a result of this disintegration that created a canyon with a deep base.

The Ihlara Valley has protected these rock-cut dwellings which were used as churches and homes, the churches having frescoes which are now a unique historical treasury. These frescoed churches and dwellings easily carved into rock from the early years of Christianity are scattered all along the way from Ihlara to Selime through the Ihlara valley.

Due that the abundance of water and its hidden form and easily to hide structure it was the first settlement place of the first Christians escaping from the Roman soldiers. In the Ihlara Valley there are over a hundred of churches caved in the volcanic rocks, possibly over 4,000 homes and it is believed that 80,000 people may have lived there at one time.

Below are views of various caves in the valley.

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A view of the valley from the top (turn head 45 degrees to see properly)
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Mosaics in the churches cut into the rock
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A local carving of a wolf
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A birds nest, which one I do not know.
The visit to the caves took us two and a half hours and we covered more than 7 kilometres walking along the river then up to and down from the various caves and churches that interested us. At the end most of us were quite tired but the visit was worth the walk.

From the caves we travelled to Yeralti Sehri Underground City. This is a city completely underground and five stories deep. No photographs are available as there was a large group of Korean ladies there besides other tourists (us included) and the place was packed out. The access was very narrow and in parts there was a one-way system working. It was certainly very claustrophobic.

Then it was off to Goreme in Cappadocia where there are more elaborate cave still used for housing, restaurants and churches. The soft stone was formed by the weight of volcanic ash on it over years. 

Below are cave dwellings seen on the way to Goreme

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When we arrived at the Kaya Camping and Caravanning Site, and as I was putting up my tent the heavens open with the result I was soaked and frozen, but the tent was erected. Later that afternoon the truck broke down when in town. Not everyone had gone with the truck and the first the rest of us who heard anything about this was when the others turned up with all our gear in a large minibus, minus my mattress! It is Tim’s birthday today so he provided some baklava which was greatly appreciated by all.

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